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Tallinn, Estonia: a cultural guide from


Gabriella Le Breton offers an essential guide to Tallinn, an autumn city of cosy cafés and candlelit restaurants.

While some cities are best enjoyed on hot summer days – Siena, say, or Carcassonne – others come into their own in the cold. Tallinn, the diminutive capital of Estonia, begs to be explored when there’s a nip in the air or, even better, when its narrow medieval buildings and cobbled streets are shrouded under a blanket of snow.

Ancient merchants’ houses and cellars, home now to candle-lit and fire-warmed cafés and restaurants, lure visitors indoors to indulge in hot chocolate, spiced wine and hearty borsch. Better still, the cruise ships that ply the Baltic set sail for warmer climes come autumn, no longer disgorging their passengers into Tallinn’s bijou Old Town...

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